ALREADY LIKELY, LITTLE WHO WHO REMEMBER THAT THE FIRST OPENERS OF THE WORLD OF PERFUMES WERE ARABS, SMOKING INCOMES IN THEIR RESIDENCE AND USED THE COMMERCIAL BURISM. WHEN NEVER, ON THE EAST OF THE HOLY MONTH, RAMADAN WILL RETURN TO HISTORY AGAIN AND TRY TO UNDERSTAND WHAT PLACE TODAY TAKES TRADITIONAL EASTERN PERFUME IN A RANGE OF FASHIONABLE AND WIDE WIDE.
For answers to our questions, we went to the Ajmal factory, which for 60 years has been recreating the cultural traditions of the mysterious East in unique exotic flavors. Our interlocutor is Abdullah Ajmal, CEO of Ajmal Perfumes, a representative of the third generation of the Ajmal family.
Abdullah, is it true that your family was originally engaged in the supply of precious oud from India, and by no means perfumery?
That's right, our family business was founded by my grandfather, who was engaged in the supply of oud to the countries of the Middle East, since our hometown was located almost on the border with the jungle, where this raw material is mined.
Let me remind you immediately of those who do not know what ud is. Agar, aloe tree, audit, ud - all these names belong to one rare tropical tree that grows in the region of Southeast Asia - northern India, Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia, Indonesia and Vietnam. The most common are two species - Aquilara Malaccensis and Aquilaria agallocha. The most valuable part of the oud is the resinous wood affected by the fungus. Initially, healthy oud wood is white and soft, with no aroma and no particular value. But after the tree is affected by the fungus Phialophora parasitica, the tree saturates the affected area with resin, trying to stop the spread of the parasite.
The wood becomes dark and when set on fire exudes a thick, spicy, balsamic aroma. Raw materials are rare and, depending on the place of origin, have different saturation and spiciness of the aroma. Oud is sold in grams. The most expensive type of ud is ciara, its cost exceeds $ 450 per gram. On average, pieces of oud cost from hundreds to several thousand dollars per kilogram.
When did it become clear that just uda is not enough for customers?
We monitored demand, and at one point realized that buyers were interested in not only the raw materials for incense, but also perfumes based on it. Then we began to buy raw materials for the production of perfumes in France and other countries, because what we had was clearly not enough. This helped us to complement the traditional flavors of Arabia with new ingredients familiar to the Western consumer, resulting in completely unique aromatic combinations that began to appeal to customers from European countries and residents of the region. In the process of producing our own perfumes, we talked a lot with eminent perfume houses in Europe, exchanging knowledge and experience. We told Western perfumers about the value and features of oud, they about the most fashionable and sought-after ingredients for world-famous perfumes. This collaboration has helped us occupy our own niche, and I can proudly say that Ajmal Perfumery today is a perfume house that works in the style of "ethnic chic".
We are fashionable and stylish, but at the same time, there is a certain element in our perfume compositions that reminds people of their roots and history. Without this, it is impossible to maintain tradition.
Do you remember what the first perfumes of Ajmal were called? And can you find them in your company stores today?
The first fragrance, which was seriously introduced to the market and had a solid marketing and advertising campaign, was called “Sarah”. It was released in late 1994. Of course, we had other aromas that appeared earlier, but it was this one that was the first that we presented "according to all the laws of the genre." It is still one of our best sellers, but it’s true that you can only buy it in certain markets where there is demand.
Can you find these perfumes in the Emirates? 
In the Emirates, no. In Saudi Arabia, in India - yes.
Why is that?
Because in the countries of the region they are not particularly attached to any one flavor. Our customers are always interested in new products, already having in their collection a couple of classic oriental perfumes. Do not forget that most residents of the region mix aromas with each other, so that from one to three to five perfumes can be applied to one person. And this is normal for the eastern consumer.
Moreover, many of our customers know exactly what aromas when mixed with each other give the most expressive result. It was not by chance that we launched the “My Inspiration” concept, which allows any buyer in Ajmal to compose their own perfumes from the perfumes available in the store. Sometimes amazing things come out.
I heard about another unique concept - Eternal by Ajmal. Please tell us a little about her.
This concept is a combination of high art and noble perfumery. We offer customers exclusive perfumes and compositions of aromatic oils, enclosed in bottles of Murano glass, as well as a whole collection of glass art, commissioned by our company. Each masterpiece is presented in a single copy, has a certificate and number. In addition, we also present rare types of incense wood. Gift sets can be made up from the whole assortment. These gifts are designed for true connoisseurs and can only be purchased at Eternal by Ajmal branded boutiques or in departments of large department stores.
Abdullah, today only the lazy does not release perfumes on oriental topics. Many famous perfume houses make aromas, in the names of which the word "oud" is written. What then needs to be done by Ajmal, for which oud is the basis of all compositions? How to stand out from the general flow?
Thanks for a very good question. I will tell you honestly, many spirits whose names include oud do not have it in their composition. The most that can be there is a synthetic analogue, which does not give the aroma the strength and depth that can appear if a real oud is used. It is rare, and it is a real luxury. We continue to remain in the niche of luxury, because I am convinced that, firstly, real luxury is not affordable for everyone, and secondly, few can appreciate the true meaning of an exclusive and rich aroma. In my opinion, now is the time when we all, humanity in a global sense, are returning to our roots. Remember how a hundred years ago our ancestors grew fruits and vegetables in orchards and vegetable gardens, and then mankind rejoiced at artificially derived genetically modified foods - how good and fast it is to feed the planet!
Now, we are back to garden vegetables, only now they are called organic and sold at very high prices. People finally realized the value of all natural. The same applies to perfumes, the fashion for certain smells passes, but the present remains. And after many years, your favorite fragrance can remind you of the best moments of your life.
Then tell me, please, what fragrance will remind of the month of Ramadan and the secrets of the East?
ABOUT! For this holiday and to mark the 60th anniversary of the House of Ajmal Perfumes, we are preparing a real gift for all connoisseurs of oriental spirits. Our new fragrance has already received the name “Oro” (“Gold”) and, hopefully, will be available in early August. Our other fragrances, awarded by the International Federation of Perfumers (FIFI) awards, will tell you about other secrets of the East, and we will continue to work in the segment of luxurious Middle Eastern perfumes for the benefit of all their fans.
We will look forward to the appearance on the shelves of new items. Allow me to wish you, as the newly elected vice president of the Arabian Perfume Fund (FFA), continued success in promoting Arab perfume traditions.
