Interviewed: Elena Olkhovskaya
Gerald Clerk is the owner of the fourth-generation Clerc watch brand. He is behind the creation of the incredibly successful Odyssey watch collection. As an architect by training, he is looking for unique approaches to making watches and is trying to create completely unique models.
The very first collection of Gerald Clerk, released in 1998, made a splash in the industry of Haute Horlogerie. But Gerald does not stop there. He can talk about his watch for hours ....
Gerald, how can you describe the main trends emerging in the watch industry? What did Basel World 2009 show?
One of the main elements of the current exhibition in Basel, especially in the current changing conditions, I would call creativity. Each represented company sought to be the first and tried to demonstrate what a modern buyer wants. The second is a unique watch that was really amazing and very emotional. Third, this is the desire to create true values. Today, people need watches that are not only beautiful, creative and impressive, but watches that represent true values. And the last thing I noted for myself is the reasons that encourage watchmakers to create more and more new watches, and new companies to enter the watch market. Today's situation has begun to show who really can and has the right to issue watches and be called a watchmaker, and who, alas, is not. In general, it seems to me that all these elements made up the Basel World 2009 exhibition, and also determined our participation in it.
What do you consider the main distinguishing features of a Clerc watch?
Creativity is the most important factor for us. We have been producing watches for more than a hundred years, and their appearance and attractiveness play a paramount role. In addition, our watches carry a powerful charge of positive emotions to their owners. And, of course, Clerc is synonymous with immutable values. We always pay great attention to the complexity of the case of our watches, their production, our own mechanisms manufactured in our factory, so that we can then give our customers something really valuable that falls into the premium segment.
Your company cannot boast of mass production of watches. Who are the main buyers of Clerc watches?
Clerc is a family company, created in 1874, and today it is managed by the fourth generation of our family, which I represent. We always produced watches in limited editions, made special models. We also produce watches according to original orders, for example, we made a unique model for the Russian Prime Minister Vladimir Putin with a dial, which shows Moscow and Paris inlaid with blue sapphires. We created watches for the Princess Grace wedding ceremony. Clerc watches have been and are worn by such celebrities as Salvador Dali, Paco Rabbann, Maurice Chevalier, Michael Douglas, Goldie Hawn and others. For some reason, it seems to me that Russian buyers are very sensitive to such things. Russians always value original and high-quality products and complex mechanisms.
Nowadays, watches no longer carry their functional load. Do you agree that the watch industry is losing ground in some way?
It is very interesting for me to talk with you as a Russian journalist living and working in Dubai. I always felt that Russian people, thanks to their long history and rich traditions, are well versed in the nature of complex mechanisms, including watches. And what is most interesting, Russians with their qualities remind Japanese who are not indifferent to technical innovations. On the other hand, the Russians have features inherent in the inhabitants of the Middle East - they like powerful watches, with a strong character, beautifully decorated or having an original, nothing like appearance. This is a very interesting combination.
Russian is important not only the mechanism installed in the watch, but also the external attractiveness of the model that is worn on their wrist. This is me as a retreat ...
As for the watch industry as a whole, it seems to me that people will never stop loving good mechanics, so there’s no need to talk about the watchmaking skills in decline.
Which model do you think is the best in Clerc collections?
This is the same as asking the father which of his children he loves the most. He probably has a son with whom he most likes to play football, and at the same time has a daughter with whom they bake pancakes for Sunday breakfast. I really like our new women's collection from the Hydroscaph line, which I would call the new generation of mechanical watches for female divers, with which you can dive to a depth of 1000 meters. This watch is high-tech, each instance is assembled from more than 75 parts. This, in my opinion, is the most complicated watch in the world and the most complex of those that are produced in Switzerland. In them we have developed a very interesting system, which allows using a special latch to lock the bezel of the watch. Moreover, not every Swiss watch company conducts testing of its watches, which are written on their water resistance, in water tanks. Sometimes such watches, which show water resistance up to 200 meters, let water through even when a person is in the shower. We test our watches under water. And they are tested with honor. Clerc watches are always very creative, with strong recognizable features and an interesting design. And this is what we are rightfully proud of.
Our classic Odyssey mechanical chronograph collections are generally works of art. In all our watches we use a unique combination of materials - carbon fiber, stainless steel, gold, diamonds, precious stones, rubber. Skeleton models amaze customers with multi-tiered paintings hidden inside mechanisms that go deep into the body. Without even mentioning the outstanding craftsmanship of our watchmakers, I want to draw your attention to the way in which we attach the straps of our watches to the case. A special flexible mount allows people with different sizes of wrists to wear our watches. I think that all these features will be appreciated by buyers from different countries.
Who in our time can be called a real "watchmaker"?
No wonder I talked about creativity, about a creative approach to business. Real watchmakers are hard to find today. True creativity is rooted in the past and is based on a special philosophy. For example, we first dream about what our watches will be like, calculate every detail, and only after that we take on the embodiment. Creating our watches, we do not compromise in anything. And therefore, each Clerc model is obtained exactly as it was originally intended. We don’t sacrifice either our mechanisms or the design of our watches to anything, for example, to reduce production costs. We do not sacrifice our design in order to satisfy more people or reassure our competitors. We are not doing any of this. And it seems to me that when people look at our watches, they see in them a strong character and the history behind the creation of each instance. And before we start talking about history, we must definitely talk about the passion that drives our creative process. If there is no passion for what you do, then everything you produce does not matter. This is my philosophy.
How many watches does Clerc produce annually?
We have a small company, we produce about 3,000 hours a year. Their distribution is limited both by the number of copies and the markets of those countries to which we supply our products. We only work with well-known retailers in each country. In Dubai, our watches can be bought at Al Tayer's Azal stores and the Harvey Nichols fashion gallery at Mall of the Emirates. We are also well represented in leading jewelry stores in Qatar and Saudi Arabia, as well as other countries in the region. Our regular customers know well where to find new Clerc collections.
What is the future of the watch industry as a whole, in your opinion?
I believe that the trends outlined during the last exhibition in Basel will continue. Wealthy people will continue to buy watches for their own pleasure and as a profitable investment. Moreover, the choice will fall on truly extraordinary specimens. And not always the big name of a famous brand will play a fundamental role in choosing a buyer. In Russia, for example, this has always been and is happening that way. Russian buyers, first of all, watch itself is important, and only then their brand is interesting. And if you look, the leading brands that sell well in the US or Europe are not at all interested in buyers from Russia. They have a qualitatively different approach to acquiring watches. They value the product itself and its quality. And the last thing they pay attention to is who makes this watch and why.
You talk so much about Russian customers. Are your watches sold in Russia?
Yes, we entered the Russian market quite recently, but I believe that it has great potential for Clerc.
Who makes the final decision on what each new Clerc collection will look like?
I. The whole team works, of course, but since Clerc is a family business, I have a great responsibility, and it is I who must make sure that Clerc watches can always be recognized among many others. Our watches are my passion, and I think that this is for life.
Thanks, Gerald. I wish you success.
