Text: Dariga Masenova Bachelor of Fine Arts and the Master of Gold Cutting, DESIGNER FROM SOUTH AFRICA OF SPANISH ORIGIN ANTON HYUNIS FOR THE FIRST TIME PRESENTED IN HARVEY NICHOLS - DUBAI STORE AGAIN.
In an exclusive interview with Russian Emirates, the designer spoke about his love for Russia, his glamorous grandmother and how best to use his jewelry for styling winter images.
You arrived in Dubai for a day and, oddly enough, brought rain with you!
Anton: Yes, because of this, by the way, I didn’t have time to see much in Dubai. But the rain helped me get to know Mall ofthe Emirates better. And especially with Harvey Nichols!
They say that you studied very long and hard ... And when did the creative spirit of a born jeweler awaken in you?
Anton: Fortunately, I have always been a creative child. While my brothers were chasing a soccer ball, I drew and did various crafts.
I liked to pack things with my own hands. I loved to sew little dresses and costumes for the dolls of my cousins. They had incredibly cute Barbie dolls, and, of course, I wanted to dress them. And my grandmother always encouraged my creative streak.
Did your grandmother do your upbringing?
Anton: I grew up with my parents and older brothers, I have two of them, but my grandmother was always there. Like all children, I just loved to visit her. South Africa is rich in valuable minerals. I grew up on my grandmother's tales of diamonds and gold encyclopedias. I was always attracted by the brilliance of jewelry, one might even say that I had a need to see and understand them. My grandmother had a very strong influence on me. She was a glamorous woman, and although she did not wear “big” brands, she knew how to style luxurious looks for herself.
On her dressing table there were always magnificent crests, jewelry, brooches. everything was beautifully arranged. She left the house only if she looked perfect. I think I was conveyed by her sense of style, which over the years has grown in me with a geometric progression.
Would you like to sew "adult" clothes?
Anton: You know, at that time we lived in the provinces, and the fashion industry was not quite accessible for me, and even risky. In addition, I was more attracted to the design of jewelry. There is true love between us.
How did you end up in Madrid?
Anton: First, I studied at the Department of Jewelry Design at Stellenbosch University (South Africa). Then he went to Munich to study jewelry.
And after intensive study and defense of the master's degree, I was lucky enough to work in London. It was there that I created models for various designers for a long time. But sometimes creative people need an adequate assessment of their work, so I decided to open my own brand. My partner while living in Madrid. So, after weighing all my chances, I decided to go to Spain to open Anton Heunis.
That is, in London there was no creative freedom?
Anton: Of course, when you work for someone, this is one of those compromises that you should make. A specific request for work with specific restrictions and concepts comes to you.
The client has his own calculations for a certain market, and there is not much space for creativity.
What inspires you to create jewelry?
Anton: I am a big fan of cinema, and often draw inspiration from my favorite films. "Loving mood." Hong Kong art house movie directed by Wong Kar-Wai.
Crazy-beautiful movie-atmosphere! On the other hand, when the "Avatar" by James Cameron came out, he simply shocked me. I understood that it was geometrically the opposite in format and genre of cinema, but I liked the concept based on fantasy so much! I generally love science fiction. “Barbarella” by Roger Vadim and “Blade Runner” by Ridley Scott in my top list! The imagination of the directors is truly intriguing and gives a creative charge.
Still, the movie is translated into the design language?
Anton: To some extent. I adhere to vintage aesthetics in a modern interpretation. I generally like to interpret the memories of past years in a new style. And since I'm a fan of science fiction, it’s easy to “read” my characters. I hope my products will have the same long life.
Perhaps the charm of your jewelry is that it is easy to mistake them for vintage ones?
Anton: Of course, trends are important, but they are not eternal. And I believe that if you buy something now, then in five years the thing should be relevant. For example, when the hype around neon began, it was not enough in my products. I do not believe that in a few years the decoration with neon elements will still be in trend. It does not look and will never look expensive. Of course, Anton Heunis does not produce luxury jewelry made of gold and diamonds.
However, regular customers invest a lot of money in our products from semiprecious stones and metal, and therefore I always want to give them a design outside of time and place.
They talk a lot about you - both regulars of fashion weeks, and editors of fashion blogs. What makes Anton Heunis different from other brands?
Anton: My jewelry is universal. I do not create them for a specific person. And I try to keep the design ageless. After all, we have fans from 65 years of age and older, but 18-year-old girls are also actively following our new products. Therefore, in our collections you can find small, classic models and fairly large, iconic jewelry. For example, in the Emirates - bright designs, and in Japan - on the contrary, discreet, elegant jewelry.
Which country is most interesting in terms of fashion development?
Anton: Of course, Russia! Your country represents for me a powerful fashion arena with stable financial support. If earlier Russians were not perceived as trendsetters because of certain stereotypes, now everything has changed. Parents send their children to study at prestigious European universities. They receive a brilliant education and experience, they develop an unusually refined taste.
But the main thing is that in Russian women there is that same audacity without which any iconic accessory looks ridiculous. In fact! Sometimes you see someone in Europe or America with a fashionable brand element. but all wrong and wrong! Accessories should not wear you; you should wear them.
Even small diamond stud earrings are appropriate. Unless, of course, you know how to wear them correctly. For example, you can wear incredibly luxurious “droplets” and go have a coffee while looking authentic. The most interesting trend for me at the moment is how you style everything.
How would you style your favorite jewelry from the new collection?
Anton: I love a pair of spike earrings. They are extremely versatile and are on the verge of day and evening image. At first glance, it seems that the spikes are too aggressive, but they are amazingly frame the face, making it narrower and thinner. By the way, I would not recommend following an asymmetric trend, because it does not suit everyone. Perhaps the earring in one ear suits Miroslava Duma, but it is unlikely that this will decorate most of you!
Which fan wears your jewelry the best?
Anton: Good question. I like to be surprised and see how my accessories are worn in an unusual way. Once I met a girl who put my necklace on her head. I would never have thought that you could make a tiara out of it, and this lifted my mood. Be bolder, experiment and create trends yourself!
