TODAY, HOW AND A HALF A CENTURY BACK, Despite all the difficulties through which it came to pass, "FABERGE" IS A SYNONYM OF LUXURY. THIS BRAND'S PRODUCTS TAKE THE LEADING PLACES ON THE LIST OF THE MOST EXPENSIVE AND STYLISH THINGS.
I have always associated this legendary name with the greatness of imperial Russia. Apparently, therefore, even the new collections presented at a private show at the Burj Al Arab hotel in Dubai, I looked with a certain reverence. And the creative director of Faberge House, the extremely charismatic and charming Katarina Flor, aroused my genuine interest.
Katarina, you are a keen and even a little adventurous person. We have come a long way, part of which has passed in Russia ... You can even write a script about this.
The path to Russia was begun by my father. For quite a long time he worked in Moscow on the space program, traveled to Baikonur, to Novosibirsk. Dad was one of the first foreign professors invited to Russia. He likes to remember that when he flew across the Atlantic from Canada to Moscow, he was the only passenger aboard Aeroflot! Here is such a "popular" was Russia in those days. ...
But the history of our family is very closely connected with Russia. We have Slavic and Eastern European roots. Therefore, when I was invited to work in Moscow, I was delighted. By the way, dad was also happy. Only mom was worried ...
Where are you from?
I was born in Munich, although my parents already lived in America: my mother really wanted the children to be born in Germany. But I spent my childhood in Canada and Texas, as my father worked at NASA. Then our family returned to Germany. Dad got his doctorate, and I graduated from high school and took a year off. I visited Paris and Milan, then returned home and entered the medical faculty of the university.
Five years later, she married a Swiss-German financier. My husband gave me freedom of choice: they say the last thing we need in the family is another doctor! It turned out that all his brothers and sisters-in-law were doctors, and he wanted to somehow "dilute" this circle ... As a result, I took up what I really dreamed of - I graduated from the High Fashion School in Switzerland.
Do you want to do design?
I was always very interested and admired by ancient jewelry, vintage, history ... I began to collect them. Participated in auctions, acquired unique jewelry, wore them. My unusual style was noticed by friends who at that time began to publish the European version of the fashion magazine W. They said that with my taste, ability to dress beautifully and stylishly and a glamorous lifestyle, I should only work as a fashion editor. And give recommendations to readers - where to go, what to buy and how to wear it all!
One of my first stories for the magazine was based on my trip to St. Petersburg in the early 1990s. There I met with the mayor of the city Anatoly Sobchak ... Ksenia was still a child then. But with his wife, Lyudmila Narusova, we often together enjoyed great music at the Stars of the White Nights festival. Without exaggeration, I discovered a previously unknown world that I wanted to learn more and more about!
I understand you very well. Hermitage, Fontanka, white nights ...
Yes, I walked around the Hermitage a lot, traveled to Tsarskoye Selo, met many artists who have now become quite successful and famous ... People of art always reflect the mood of society. In Russia, the era of perestroika was going on, but for me it was a period of rebirth and grandiose impressions. Enjoying a dive into the depths of Russian history, I watched the incredible susceptibility of Russian women to a new wave of luxury: people were hungry, curious and ready for change.
As soon as I returned to Europe, I again received an offer to go to Russia and become the fashion director of the Russian version of Vogue. I was shocked: "It cannot be that this magazine is already published in Russia!"
Did you immediately accept the offer or take a time out to consider everything?
First, I was invited to Moscow for an interview. And although I was already planning my career at Marie Claire, I gladly went to Russia. I was introduced to a true professional - Vogue editorial director Anna Harvey. She appreciated my presentation and choice of photographers and noted the elegant line in all the photographs I selected. She could not help but appreciate them, because my idol then was Grace Coddington (the cult model of the 1960s “Cod”, and now the creative director of Vogue magazine - approx. Ed.). You understand! I told her about my vision of the magazine, and she liked it.
Then I met the editor-in-chief Alena Doletskaya, who tried to “bring me back to the ground” so that I would not expect that my job would be to walk around Moscow in limousines in chic dresses ... Honestly, I didn’t quite understand what difficulties awaited me in front. But I could not miss such a unique opportunity: many candidates were tried for my position, and everyone wanted to become the editor of the Russian Vogue!
Has work in Moscow helped your career?
Of course! For two and a half years in Moscow, we have prepared an excellent team. And I returned to London as a fashion editor for Tatler magazine. Under the control of the unique, eccentric and extraordinary Isabella Blow. A few years later I already specialized in jewelry and watches, was responsible for advertising ... Then the word of mouth worked - I was invited to an interview at Faberge! Of course, I did not have a special education in jewelry making. However, my experience in magazines, numerous acquaintances, conversations with famous jewelry designers and company directors, and most importantly - my love for art history and a passion for what I did, influenced the decision of the company's management to accept me into the wonderful family of Faberge House.
Medicine, fashion, journalism, jewelry ... Your life is very eventful. Are you still searching or have you already found your destination?
Life itself is a precious thing. We all have very little time to understand our purpose. But I think that if the opportunity is given to return something in return for your success - whether you are engaged in medicine, fashion or art - this is happiness! And there is something amazing about it. It seems that your participation in the current rebranding of the Faberge brand is precisely the return to the world of a particle of beauty ... I think yes ... You know that until 1917 the family business of Faberge in Russia flourished. However, the revolution forced their family to go abroad ... And when the talented jeweler Karl Gustavovich Faberge, who brought recognition to the House, died in 1920, the heirs were no longer able to manage the business. The brand was resold several times. Under this trademark, all sorts of things unrelated to jewelry were produced.
In 2007, Faberge was bought by an African businessman, Brian Gilbertson, who decided to return to his former glory. Two descendants of Faberge were invited to cooperate with the Heritage Council - great-great-granddaughter Tatyana (she is 82 years old, she speaks good Russian, knows all family history) and her cousin Sarah (she is 50 years old, she is from the English family branch). Being experts on heritage, cousins take an active part in the formation of the archives of the House, give recommendations on the design of jewelry, literally investing their whole soul and emotions in a new production.
What does Faberge mean to you personally?
Something extraordinary. Now I’ll explain ... Once, together with Tatyana, we visited a famous auction house. And I was able to hold in my hands family heirlooms - the originals of Faberge. The work of the times of the Russian Empire was surprisingly delicate and of high quality - both externally and internally. It was then that I realized how important it is to maintain traditions and ensure the same level of high jewelry art today.
Probably, then you already understood what is needed for this? Otherwise, Frederic Zawi would not have appeared in the Faberge House ...
The jeweler-artist of the House Faberge must be a true master of his craft. It is important for him to be able to understand the manufacturing process and know how to “revive” a picture from a sheet of paper. That was exactly what Carl Faberge was at one time. Therefore, when we started looking for a master for the position of chief designer, I immediately thought about Frederick Zaavi. I met his work as an editor. And she was glad to know that Tatyana Faberge also highly appreciated his gift. In general, she and I decided that a talented, although little-known French jeweler is the best suited for a reviving company ...
Frederick's first exclusive collection of 100 haute couture jewelry was introduced in 2009. Together with his team, he recreated the spirit of Faberge, presenting a modern version of a unique style. In the line of Les Fleurs, he used sketches of flowers and sculptures by Carl Faberge on the theme of flora. The Les Fables collection introduced the heroes of Russian fairy tales - precious brooches are made in the form of the Sea Tsar or the Zharptitsa. Of course, we could not ignore the theme of luxurious balls of pre-revolutionary times in the line of Le Carnet De Bal. Unfortunately, cooperation with Frederick was interrupted for a very tragic reason - he became seriously ill, in the last year of his life he could not work. He was only 48 years old - and the world lost a great jeweler!
The story of Faberge would be incomplete without the famous Easter theme ...
Of course. And together with the new chief designer of the House, Natalia Shugaeva, we created an amazingly delicate line of jewelry Les Palais. We can say that we returned the fashion for the famous Easter eggs. By the way, many experts did not believe in this project, they said that the time of eggs was long gone, and that no one today would wear them as jewelry. But we offered a new reading of the masterpiece - covered the drawings with hot enamel. At the same time, all jewelry is braided with a relief ornament of yellow and pink gold with accents of colorless diamonds, giving a fashionable effect of three-dimensionality and color depth. And, the so-called spring color palette and ornament are inspired by the luxurious decor of the suburban residence of Russian tsars - Tsarskoye Selo.
At Baselworld, I was impressed with the Les Danses Fantasques collection. So airy and infinitely elegant ...
This is another successful example of the interpretation of the artistic heritage in modern performance. A kind of fantasy dance of emeralds and colorless diamonds to the accompaniment of white gold. A precious embodiment of the art of the legendary Russian ballet.
But Emotion rings, in my opinion, are not made in the style of Faberge.
You're right! We can say that the capsule collection of Emotion rings embodies the innovative spirit of the House - juicy and very bold. The rich flowering of precious stones cannot but evoke lively, vivid emotions. The same that we experience, admiring the smooth bends of the rivers or the picturesque mountains of Russia. All the riot of Russian nature, breathtaking, - in the line of Emotion.
Faberge's design should be a fresh look at the history of art - this is a wondrous romance from the past, quite modern to organically fit into our time. After all, we can’t just copy, although many fans of the brand have a steady appetite for antiques ...
But! Nowadays, only a few of the jewelers are able to deny themselves such a pleasure!
Yes, we cannot "stamp" soulless jewelry. High jewelry art is in subtle harmony. And the value of stone should not be inferior to the value of artistic design. Today, it is especially necessary to observe this fragile and very important balance, while preserving the memory of the past, artistic craftsmanship and the quality of precious stones. In our circle, we call it the “dance with history” ... However, not so long ago, under the glorious name Faberge, a lot of absolute consumer goods were produced, so now we need time to restore the reputation and honor of the brand. Indeed, despite all the vicissitudes of fate, the name of Carl Faberge is not forgotten, he is remembered, loved and appreciated by fans - both in the creative environment and in the world of jewelry.
